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Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a more backward bouquet with touches of petrichor and green apple unfolding in the glass, quite strict compared to the other cuvées. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. There is a touch of reduction at the moment, but it is simpatico with the…

Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Bourgogne Blanc has an attractive bouquet with green apple and light dewy meadow scents. Fine delineation. The palate is crisp and fresh, malic in style with a fresh Granny Smith-tinged finish that doesn’t outstay its welcome. Fine.

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Clinet has quite a lot of new oak to be subsumed on the nose, and at the moment, it is disguising the DNA of this château. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and pointed acidity, slightly bitter but with a pleasing salinity on the finish. I am intrigued to see how this…

2010 Brunello di Montalcino: A Promise Fulfilled (Feb 2015)

Cupano’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the richest, deepest wines of the vintage. Plush and concentrated to the core, the 2010 boasts serious intensity in its cherry compote, plum tart, smoke, licorice and spice notes. The flavors are bold and persistent in a seamless Brunello built on pure texture. Once again, Lionel Cousin…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2001 Château de Fargues has a ton of botrytis on the nose, along with those trademark scents of Manuka honey and quince, Seville oranges and perhaps more delineation than I noticed on previous bottles. The palate has a lovely balance with botrytis-soaked fruit, unctuous in texture with stem ginger and even a hint of…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Ruby-red. Pungent, deep aromas of red berry preserves and kirsch, with notes of smoky Indian spices and minerals adding complexity. Broad, liqueur-like red fruit flavors coat the palate and show a distinctly warm, slightly roasted character, with gentle back-end lift. Finishes sweet and impressively persistent, with repeating smoke and spice notes. This rich, serious wine…