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Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2001)

Good medium red with an amber rim. Rather closed nose hints at roasted plum, minerals, raisin and orange peel. Sweet and pungently minerally, with lovely acidity giving this highly concentrated wine excellent clarity of flavor. Very firmly structured and still youthful. Finishes with toothcoating tannins and terrific persistence.

Vertical Tasting of Trimbach’s Riesling Clos Ste. Hune (Mar 2012)

Pale bright yellow. Aromas of peach, grapefruit and pineapple, along with a sake-like saline quality. Compellingly youthful and juicy on the palate, with petrol and crushed stone notes lifted by mint and grapefruit zest. I’ve seen reports of advanced bottles of this vintage, but my bottle was pale in color and had plenty of positive…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 1985 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru came from a magnum directly from the Domaine’s cellars. It has a sumptuous bouquet with red cherries, leather and sous-bois. Wild mint touches evolve in the glass. The palate has a sweet and slightly candied entry. It feels smoother than examples that I have tasted from bottle, though…

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1985 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a wine that I last tasted back in May 2004 at a vertical in London. For me, this is the best vintage of that decade. The bouquet is earthy and spicy, not dissimilar to Christophe Roumier’s of that same year, although without the same delineation and complexity….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Meursault Village, this vintage a blend of all their vineyard holdings because the yield was so small (for example, just two barrels from half a hectare in Narvaux), has a taut and delineated bouquet with crushed stone infusing the malic aromas. The palate is well-balanced with a twist of lemon on the entry,…

South Africa: Where Are We Now? (Sep 2024)

The 2022 Porseleinberg was macerated with about 70% submerged cap and 30% pump-over. It was matured 85% in foudres and 15% in concrete vats for 12 months, then an additional six months in bottle. It presents a deep ruby color. The bouquet takes time to open in the glass, revealing blackberry and touches of cassis,…