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Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic (Mar 2024)

The tightly wound 2023 Pinot Noir Camp Hill, from a higher-altitude vineyard, is shy and reticent, with wild strawberry and cranberry aromas topped by a strong line of dried herbs and wintergreen. Acid-driven and a little angular, it has a soft underbelly. There is undeniable complexity, although overall it feels underpowered.

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Inky violet color. A heady, seductively perfumed bouquet evokes blackberry, cassis and licorice, with violet and Asian spice topnotes. Broad, palate-staining black and blue fruit and spicecake flavors show outstanding concentration and intense minerality. Clings impressively on the endless finish, which leaves mineral-accented blackberry and candied floral notes behind. I underestimated this remarkable wine last…

All Change: New Zealand Reds (Apr 2023)

The 2021 Coleraine is refined and understated, maintaining this Kiwi thoroughbred’s royal reputation. The blend brings together 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc, although the lifted violets and pencil lead perfume would leave you thinking there was more Franc here. It is a fragrant expression that brings sweetness of ripe, silky fruit…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2012 Rosé Cuvée Alexandra is the hidden gem in the Laurent Perrier range. I seldom see it talked about, which is a shame. Then again, Laurent Perrier only bottles this Champagne in very rare vintages that allow for a maceration of both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Rose petal, mint, kirsch, cinnamon and dried flowers…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview and Fall Additions (Dec 2024)

The 2015 Brut Millésimé, a blend of half Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and half Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, spent at least seven years on lees. Supple smokiness and a sense of rye bread with distant plum create a subtle nose. The palate continues with that lovely smokiness, wrapping it around…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Haut-Bailly has an impressive bouquet with brambly black fruit, gravel, sous-bois and light truffle scents—quite complex and very harmonious. There is a little more precision here compared to its 20-year-old peers. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins on the entry, making this a quite firm and more “masculine” Haut-Bailly that would benefit…