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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 La Romanée Grand Cru had just a very slight reduction on the nose. There is incredible intensity though, a mixture of red and black fruit, incense, bunches of roses and candied orange peel. It just seems to grow in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, an unerring sense of symmetry,…

You’re Unbelievable: Bordeaux 2022 (May 2023)

The 2022 Duhart-Milon underwent a short 15- to 18-day maceration and is raised in 50% new oak and the rest one-year-old barrels. It has a very graphite/mint-scented nose that is Pauillac through and through. The palate is fresh and vibrant with fine tannins. This is beautifully sculpted with a vibrant pencil lead-tinged finish reminiscent of…

2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)

The 2022 Duhart-Milon is racy and explosive right out of the gate. Ripe dark cherry, plum, cloves, licorice, menthol and mocha fill out the layers in a deep, wonderfully expressive Duhart. Firm tannins extend the finish nicely. I imagine the 2022 will require at least a few years in bottle to be at its best,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 La Romanée Grand Cru showed a little reduction on the entry. This takes time to unfurl on the nose, luscious black cherries, blueberry, pressed violet and orange blossom. There is a sensuality here that I think distinguishes it from its famous adjacent fellow monopole. The palate is medium-bodied is very well balanced with…

Don’t Rain on My Parade: Mâconnais 2019/2020 (Nov 2021)

Coming from a selection of the oldest vines planted before the war and a selection of approximately 10 barrels, the 2019 Hommage à Léonard Chandon is very succinct on the nose with beautifully defined citrus peel, orange zest and light fumé notes. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, the new…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton Rothschild is a rich, shockingly flamboyant wine endowed with tremendous fruit density and a level of unctuousness that could be taken for a wine still in barrel. Marvelously open and fleshy, the 2018 is utterly breathtaking today. I imagine it will shut down at some point, but today it is all seduction…