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2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)

The 2022 Haut-Bailly is dark and quite brooding in bearing. The natural intensity of small grapes comes through in the wine’s dark fruit and firm, imposing tannins. Black cherry, gravel, cloves, cured meats, licorice, incense and charcoal embers add to an impression of virile thrust. I imagine the 2022 will take some time to come…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac showed supremely well from barrel. Now in bottle, the aromatics are tightly wound at first, opening with each swirl to reveal blackberry, crushed stone, peony and cracked black pepper scents. It is quintessential Brane-Cantenac. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins that lend this Margaux unerring sym. Indeed, this is the…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac is every bit as impressive as it was en primeur. What a wine. Fresh, brisk and wonderfully vibrant in the glass, the 2022 soars with striking Cabernet Sauvignon aromatics. Graphite, menthol, sage, mint, licorice, dried flowers and a kiss of well-judged oak all meld together in the glass. Great wine is the…

You’re Unbelievable: Bordeaux 2022 (May 2023)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac, as usual, is a wine that you must sit and contemplate before words gush forth. It was picked from 7 September to 10 October (their tiny plot of Carmenère) at 31.5hL/ha and contains 16% vin de presse from the Cabernet Sauvignon. It is well-defined and fresh, a very subtle Margaux, precise with…

2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac is captivating. Aromatic, savory and layered, the 2022 is so alluring from the outset. The natural radiance of the year is very much on display, and yet there is nothing that is overdone about the 2022. Hints of blood orange, spice, rose petal and minerals open over time, offering stunning contrast to…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright yellow. A note of meaty reduction to the aromas of crushed stone, white pepper and smoke. Densely packed, smooth and refined, showing lovely freshness and lift to its intense stone fruit and floral flavors. Finishes very long and suave, with an impression of fine-grained tannins and terrific lift.