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A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Les Pensées has a beautifully defined bouquet with blackberry, gravel, black olive and espresso notes that unfurl in the glass. There is marvelous complexity here. The palate is medium-bodied with a grainy texture, gentle but insistent in grip, and hints of dark chocolate manifesting toward the finish that gently fans out. This is…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Les Pensées de Lafleur is a huge wine, almost shockingly so. A blast of dark cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather and espresso saturates the palate. In 2022, Les Pensées is not a shy wine by any means. I would give it a few years in bottle to shed some of its considerable baby…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a slightly deeper and more powerful bouquet than the Clos Saint-Jacques. Exquisite definition and focus—there are more oyster shell scents here. The medium-bodied palate has finely chiseled tannins, a little chalky in texture, building wonderfully to a saline, persistent finish that exudes real breeding. A noble wine in…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a similar bouquet to the La Garenne, albeit with more intensity and slightly more tension. The palate is well-balanced with a citrus-fresh entry, hints of apricot and quince, and a dab of lemongrass, leaving a spicy note on the tongue after the wine departed. Very persistent on…

Australia Brings the Brawn and the Beauty (Oct 2017)

Opaque ruby. Powerful mineral- and spice-tinged dark fruit liqueur, licorice and pipe tobacco aromas are complemented by suggestions of candied lavender, vanilla and cracked pepper. Concentrated yet nervy and sharply delineated, offering intense black and blue fruit and spicecake flavors and a floral oil quality that builds on the back half. Shows excellent clarity and…

Cellar Favorite: A Landmark Vintage – Henschke 2021 (Apr 2025)

The stylish 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Cyril Henschke offers superb drinking and will continue to do so for some time. It gives off wafts of gravel, earth, truffle and dried herbs, along with some leafy tones over a dark berry base. The 2012 is fresh and vibrant, with an impressive weight of tannins beautifully balanced through…