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Kumeu River: The Kiwi Dream (Sep 2024)

The 2014 Chardonnay Maté’s Vineyard offers lemon sorbet and ice cream cornet. It’s still toasty and smoky, with cloves, nectarine, and flint, and it’s oh-so young. It’s a meal in itself, with its almost chewy nature. Incredibly, this is ten years old. There is still plenty of substance, and I’d suggest you don’t want to…

To Paint A Picture: Kumeu River Chardonnay 2006-2017 (Feb 2019)

The 2014 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay has a riveting, brilliantly defined bouquet of oyster shell, citrus peel and apple blossom, all very penetrating and focused. The palate is well balanced with superbly pitched acidity and well-integrated oak. There is real depth and persistence to this Chardonnay, yet there is also an effortless feel, as if it…

New Zealand’s Pellucid Wines: More Light Than Heat (May 2016)

(1993 was the first crop for these vines): Pale bright yellow. Sexy spices and perfumed yellow stone fruits, apple and pear on the nose. A step up in musky minerality and briskness from the Estate blend, showing superb energy and tactile lift. More spicy and savory than fruity or sweet. Serious rich but backward Chardonnay…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

Inky purple. Alluring bouquet of blackberry and blueberry preserves, cherry-cola and vanillin oak spices. Broad, fleshy and deep, with sweet flavors of dark berries, floral pastille and vanilla beans. The rich fruit nicely absorbs the oak element on the long, velvety finish. Leaves a wide swath of creamy dark fruits and licorice in its wake….

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1981 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, poured from a half-bottle, has a bright hue with little signs of aging. Dark berry fruit aromas commingle with mahogany antique bureau and light estuarine scents on the nose, with just a faint hint of boot polish. The palate contains commendable fruit and surprisingly rounded texture, considering the vintage. Though the finish…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1990 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is a vintage that I drank regularly. It’s always backward and compelling. I used to wonder whether it would ever come around. It has. This has a mesmerizing bouquet with black fruit, graphite, licorice and violet aromas. It just ratchets up through the gears with aeration. The palate is surfeit with sapid…