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The Quiet One: 1962 Burgundy & Bordeaux (Dec 2023)

The 1962 Lafite-Rothschild can be a superb Pauillac, but I don’t think this bottle is correct. Powerful on the nose with a distinct burnt match element, this is quite sweet and animally on the palate. This bottle just doesn’t feel right, and I will not review it. Tasted at the 1962 dinner in Burgundy.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very unforthcoming on the nose; opened to show a whiff of shoe polish. Also quite closed in on itself in the mouth; hints of black cherry and dark chocolate. Rather powerfully structured and tough to taste today, but conveys an impression of of excellent concentration. As I noted last year, the substantial tannins coat the…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco is a very pretty, gracious wine. Crushed red berries, dried flowers, mint and sweet spice all grace this decidedly airy, ethereal Barbaresco from the Gaja family. In 2017, the Barbaresco is a bit on the lighter side of things. In exchange, though, it will drink well right out of the gate.

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

The 2011 Sassicaia is soft, round and enveloping. The silky, textured style is a bit out of character for a wine that is usually a bit firmer and more energetic. Layers of expressive dark red fruit build to the open, caressing finish. There are no hard edges here. The 2011 has always come across as…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Full saturated ruby. Very pure, floral aromas of red cherry, blackberry, cassis, minerals and minty herbs. Juicy, sweetly spicy and multilayered, with strong but well-integrated acidity giving the wine lovely early balance and intensifying its dark fruit flavors. Broadens out impressively on the back half without losing its shape. This silky, very graceful Sassicaia might…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Medium ruby. Rich, roasted aroma of cherry and plums, with exotic Indian spices and sweet, dusty cocoa powder. Juicy and plump in the mouth, displaying creme de mure, singed plum, cherry and tangy licorice, along with black pepper and bacon fat accents. Spicy, strongly extracted berry and chocolate notes mark the long, intense finish, which…