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2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Very good deep red. Much more austere on the nose than the Romanee-Saint-Vivant, hinting at dark fruits, menthol and violet. Then splendidly rich but backward, boasting obvious saline minerality but hiding more than it’s showing today. Substantial dusty but refined tannins saturate the mouth on the very long, subtle, firmly structured back end. Perhaps the…

2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being (Mar 2025)

The 2010 La Tâche Grand Cru is an adolescent. It’s obviously no longer a young wine, but it is also not mature, either. For my palate, the 2010 is in a place where I would prefer to cellar it for a few more years. The aromatics are lovely, with plenty of the nuance and complexity…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(just under 13% alcohol, without chaptalization): Good bright, full red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, cranberry, spices, flowers and white pepper. Wonderfully sappy and fine-grained, with outstanding inner-mouth mineral-driven perfume to the taut flavors of pungent red berries, flowers and spices. Most impressive today on the inexorably building finish, which features very suave tannins…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru has tasted brilliantly before, though this bottle was not in the same leagues. It is quite a high-toned, flashy bouquet with just a touch of VA that ebbs with aeration, though never fully. There is a soupçon of dark chocolate that infuses the red fruit. Interestingly, this was always…

Vinous Table: Mount Sinai Charity Dinner at Saison (Nov 2019)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Subtle, sweet perfume of black raspberry, spices and truffle. Compellingly sweet, sexy wine with terrific vinosity to frame its ripe berry, floral and underbrush flavors. The wine’s inner-mouth aromatic character owes more to spices and earth than to high-pitched fruits and flowers, but this is like bottled pheromones. Finishes with powerful mouthdusting tannins…