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2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is a gorgeous, inviting wine, but it is also going to need a few years in bottle to shed some of its formidable tannins. Black cherry, plum, graphite, pencil shavings, crème de cassis and menthol open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. Patience will…

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Saturated ruby. A highly perfumed, spice-accented bouquet evokes ripe dark fruits, pipe tobacco, mocha and candied flowers. Palate-staining blueberry, cherry liqueur, licorice and fruitcake flavors show excellent depth as well as vibrancy. The floral and spice notes return on the impressively long, focused finish, which is framed by smooth, late-arriving tannins.

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Deep red. Vibrant, pure aromas of cherry, dark berries, licorice, chocolate and menthol. Sweet and supple, with cherry and mint flavors framed by sappy acidity. Finishes firm and persistent. An excellent village wine in the making, perhaps the best in years for this bottling.

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Limpid ruby-red. Lively red berry, floral pastille and Asian spice aromas are complemented by suggestions of musky garrigue and smoky minerals. Appealingly sweet, focused and seamless in the mouth, offering sappy raspberry, cherry, spicecake and candied lavender flavors that slowly deepen on the back half. Clings with very good authority on the subtly tannic finish,…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good red-ruby. Expressive nose offers berry liqueur, graphite, truffle and minerals. Sweet, concentrated and fine-grained, with currant and truffle flavors complicated by minerals and dark chocolate on the back. Finishes with sweet tannins and lovely persistence. This is accessible already but should age gracefully.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Crushed flowers, sweet berries, spices and mint are some of many notes that lift out of the glass in the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin. This is one of the softer and more forward of the wines in the range. The wine’s mid-weight structure suggests it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.