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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Barton does not have the same vigour as the Poyferré ’90 and is hampered by a bit of brett. Tertiary in style, it offers scents of wild mint and light violet, though it needs more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, very malleable in texture, harmonious with an old-school, slightly…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red-ruby. Very reserved nose hints at smoke and rose petal, with fruit very much in the background. Impressively broad and dense but impenetrable, conveying an impression of fullness and a whiff of faded rose but not the treble tones or minerality of the Richebourg today. Best today on the slow-building finish, which is…

Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

The 2014 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brulées is a wine of raw, unbridled power. Dense and also deeply expressive, but very much in need of time to come together, the Brulées is super-impressive. Smoke, scorched earth and driven red-toned notes give the 2014 its distinctively pungent, bold personality.

Life Is Funny Like That: 1999 & 2015 DRC (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked at 24.34hl/ha on 8 and 9 September. I fully agree with Aubert de Villaine who told me that the Richebourg vineyard has really stepped up a gear in recent years. This is very complex, profound even, a deep well of red berry fruit, crushed flowers, iris and wet…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Healthy dark red. Very ripe, highly complex aromas and flavors of raspberry, smoky soil tones, dried flowers and musky mocha and coffee. At once utterly seamless and youthfully imploded in the middle palate, this wine initially impressed for its energy and thrust, then gained in pliancy and sweetness with time in the glass. Still, this…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Carruades de Lafite is a very pretty wine that marries the aromatic presence of Cabernet Sauvignon and the plushness of Merlot that make up the principal part of this blend. Dried herbs, leather, earthiness, tobacco and cedar lend darkness and aromatic intensity to this brooding Pauillac. The 2020 is a powerhouse Carruades that…