Archives: Product Reviews

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1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Saturated ruby, the darkest of Laurent ’99s along with the Chambertin. Superripe, perfumed aromas of roasted blackberry, violet, mocha and smoked meat; shows no trace of this grand cru’s normal herbacity. Huge but stylish wine, with great power but not a trace of heaviness. Explosive fruit takes over the entire mouth and stays awhile. Not…

Vinous Table: Ploussard, London, UK

At 30 years old, the 1996 Vintage is developing an iridescent straw hue, though not particularly deep. The nose is engaging with walnut, warm bread and light smoky scents of moderate intensity. The palate has the presence one expects from a mature Krug, a very subtle background oxidative element mingling with orange bitters and a…

Vinous Table: Ploussard, London, UK

At 30 years old, the 1996 Vintage is developing an iridescent straw hue, though not particularly deep. The nose is engaging with walnut, warm bread and light smoky scents of moderate intensity. The palate has the presence one expects from a mature Krug, a very subtle background oxidative element mingling with orange bitters and a…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is showing quite noticeable reduction on the nose, although there seems to be sufficient fruit underneath. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, and quite reduced like the nose, but it conveys a sense of energy, unlike the Les Perrières from François…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Full medium yellow. Knockout nose combines soft citrus and yellow stone fruits, flowers and pungent minerality. Big, smooth, mouthfilling wine, with its uncanny volume given shape and lift by pronounced minerality. Finishes extremely long and tactile but not at all dry, leaving behind a tannic impression and palate-staining apricot and yellow peach fruit. Boillot routinely…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has yet another reductive nose that at present obscures the terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry. Plenty of concentration here and the acidity is taut and lends adequate tension. Touches of sour lemon on the marine-influenced finish. Give this 3-4 years…