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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Currant, bitter chocolate and a complex leafy quality on the nose. Then juicy, spicy and perfumed on the palate, with good peppery lift to the bright, concentrated flavors of cherry, spices, smoke and graphite complicated by cedar and tobacco nuances. Really textbook claret here, with the length and tannic spine for at least…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru, which comes from Echézeaux du Dessus and Quartiers de Nuits climats, does not quite work for me on the nose. It feels distant, aloof and lacks a bit of vitality. The palate is much better with grainy tannins, crunchy red fruit and an appealing bite on the finish. The aromatics…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Sassicaia is polished and expressive for the year. But it is also quite a bit darker and more concentrated than when it was a young wine. That search for a level of depth in aging that the vintage did not provide on its own also concentrated the tannins, which are a bit out…

Chianti Classico: The Magnificent 2021s (Jul 2024)

The 2021 Tignanello is every bit as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel and then just after bottling. Silky and polished, with exceptional finesse, the 2021 has all the pedigree to become a modern benchmark for Tignanello and Italian wine more broadly. Bright dark red fruit, blood orange, spice, cedar and sweet pipe…

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

The 2016 Guidalberto is a wine of total precision and class. Nuanced and beautifully perfumed, with a good kick of mid-palate juiciness from the Merlot, the 2016 dazzles from the very first taste. Dark red cherry, plum, spice and floral notes add complexity on the persistent, silky finish. This is very nicely done.

Sassicaia from Magnum at Vinous Icons: Italy

The 2011 Sassicaia, from magnum, has aged exceptionally well, certainly far better than I expected. Aromatic and wonderfully vibrant, the 2011 offers up an enticing mix of red cherry/plum fruit, dried flowers, tobacco, mocha and crushed autumn leaves. The warm, dry growing season was tempered by cooler evening temperatures toward the end of the season…