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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1997 Lafite-Rothschild is certainly one of the better First Growths of this somewhat maligned vintage. Gravel, pencil shavings and light tobacco notes furnish the mature nose that is open-knit and perhaps missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, balanced and conveying some of Lafite’s elegance, yet it does taper quickly on…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2003 Brane-Cantenac comes from an infamously hot vintage when vines found it almost impossible to shut down during the heatwave, particularly on balmy nights. As such, the prune-tinged red berry fruit aromatics feel unsurprisingly smudged, lacking the delineation and freshness of recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with distinctly confit-like red fruit, veering into…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Pavie-Macquin has a harmonious, intense bouquet of layered black cherry, bilberry and light tobacco notes; the oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, and slightly higher in acidity than I would like, although it has an irresistible silky finish. The question is, where will it go? I have…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

The 2016 Pavie-Macquin is an epic wine in the making. Powerful, dense and explosive in the glass, the 2016 is simply dazzling. A rush of dark cherry, plum, lavender, spice and licorice builds in a sumptuous, beautifully layered Saint-Émilion that screams with character. More than anything else, the 2016 impresses for the way it balances…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is…

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

The 2018 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico opens with an herbal thrust that gives way to dried violets, lavender and crushed blackberries. It is sleek and racy in feel with lifted textures and tart wild berry fruits offset by zesty acidity. It tapers off long and staining, lifted by a bump of residual acidity as notes…