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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2010 Haut-Brion is a bit of a monster at the moment. I don’t mean that pejoratively. Black fruit, melted tar and Earl Grey soar on the nose, perhaps showing a little more mineralité than prior bottles. The palate is huge (more concentrated than the 2010 La Mission served alongside); it’s almost burly and grippy…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, expressive, very showy aromas and flavors of cassis, menthol, smoke and tobacco complemented by violet, milk chocolate and sweet spices. Fat, sweet and concentrated in the mouth, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness to its highly concentrated, palate-saturating flavors. Finishes ripe and savory, with huge but plush tannins and lingering notes of…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot and 20% cabernet franc; 14.6% alcohol) Deep ruby-purple. Brooding, closed nose hints at strawberry, ripe red cherry, white pepper, minerals and violet; showing its cabernet franc element today. Rich and full on entry, displaying lovely depth to its ripe red fruit, underbrush and tobacco flavors. Harmonious acidity…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2010 Haut-Brion is a bit of a monster at the moment. I don’t mean that pejoratively. Black fruit, melted tar and Earl Grey soar on the nose, perhaps showing a little more mineralité than prior bottles. The palate is huge (more concentrated than the 2010 La Mission served alongside); it’s almost burly and grippy…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, expressive, very showy aromas and flavors of cassis, menthol, smoke and tobacco complemented by violet, milk chocolate and sweet spices. Fat, sweet and concentrated in the mouth, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness to its highly concentrated, palate-saturating flavors. Finishes ripe and savory, with huge but plush tannins and lingering notes of…

The Second Coming of Australian Chardonnay (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Tolpuddle Chardonnay is a steely and tense expression that delivers powerful and highly focussed aromas of citrus and florals with a peach skin highlight. Fine French oak sits in the perfect place. Excellent density of youthful flavor follows, with flinty, delicatessen-like tones holding firm over a strong, long, adolescent finish. This is a…