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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

(includes 20% mourvedre and 8% syrah) Good full red. Complex, vibrant nose melds raspberry, blood orange, duck confit, tree bark and toasted hazelnut. Dense, sappy and penetrating, with superb inner-mouth energy. Very spicy, sharply delineated wine with an almost Burgundian texture. Finishes with building, sweet flavors of raspberry, cherry and strawberry, a saline suggestion of…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Good bright medium ruby. Subtly complex, granitic nose melds cassis, blueberry, smoky gunflint, pepper, tar, bitter chocolate, roast coffee, leather, game and animal fur. Wonderfully juicy but currently rather folded in on itself. But this has brilliant acidity, precision and penetration on the palate. Almost painfully intense and wonderfully long and gripping on the back….

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The 2001 L’Hermitage has aged gracefully. Vivid iodine, black olive tapenade, dried violet, forest floor, cured meat and wet tea bag all race out of the glass. Medium-bodied and distinctively refreshing, the palate gradually brings out more flavors, revealing dried red and black fruits, game, black pepper and a finely tuned herbal edge. Coming in…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimension. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy, with…

2020 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha develop later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimensions. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy,…