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1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Excellent deep red. Higher-pitched, liqueur-like aromas of raspberry, cassis and licorice; subtle and complex. Lush, voluptuous and stuffed with dark fruit flavor. Finishes with dusty, substantial tannins that build in the glass. This wine fabulous fruit is easy to see today, but it, too, wants to shut down.

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1991 La Tâche Grand Cru, from magnum, is drinking beautifully. Vivacious red cherries and crushed strawberries almost reluctantly emerge, perhaps the larger format making sure the aromatics are more backward compared to bottles tasted in the past. Light scents of sea spray and crushed rock. Fine tannins frame the palate; it’s a structured and…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 1995 La Tâche Grand Cru is an outstanding wine from a decade when I don’t think the Domaine was firing on all cylinders. This echoes the magnum tasted last year with those ebullient red cherries and crushed strawberry scents on the nose. As you might expect from the bottle format, it’s a little more…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru includes the fruit that normally enters the “Quintessence” this year. The aromatics don’t really take off in the glass; they are a little subdued with touches of lanolin infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is better with bitter lemon and orange rind on the entry, quite compact for a Corton-Charlemagne,…

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Vivid ruby-red. A heady, exotically perfumed bouquet offers scents of ripe red fruits, incense and smoky minerals, with an intense floral nuance gaining strength as the wine opens in the glass. Juicy, alluringly sweet black raspberry and floral pastille flavors become fleshier and weightier with air while maintaining their verve. This seamless, pure wine finishes…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Medium red. Cherry, plum, mocha and tobacco on the nose, with hints of leather and earth. Surprising acidity gives shape to the smooth, slightly low-toned flavors of cherry, plum, mocha and flowers. Comes across as a bit youthfully disjointed today, with a faint green edge to the acidity. Has the energy of the vintage but…