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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full medium ruby. The nose offers blackcurrant, licorice, graphite, violet, minerals and exotic spices. Broad, suave and fine-grained on the palate, with fleshy but sharply focused flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco. Finishes classically dry and very long. This is St. Emilion with Pauillac and Graves qualities-and a superb vintage for this chateau, whose…

Cellar Favorite: A Landmark Vintage – Henschke 2021 (Apr 2025)

This outstanding 2021 Shiraz Hill of Grace is a confident young wine built for the long haul in a punchy package that is still tightly wound. It is starting to reveal some of its charms with rocky, licorice, blackberry, and dried herb aromas. The palate is quite extraordinary, particularly the quality of tannins, pithy texture…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Highly nuanced nose combines Indian spices, lees, truffle and strong soil tones; showed a distinct raspberry note with aeration. Explosive and powerful in the mouth; concentrated, focused and youthful. But tightly wound, and currently dominated by its structure. Doesn’t offer the urgent dark fruit flavors or generosity of the supernal ’85 and seems a bit…

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Medium-deep red. Pungent aromas of red berries, cherry, leather, meat, tobacco, cedar and eucalyptus. Juicy, dry and on the lean side, with slightly weedy red berry, tobacco and violet flavors. One feels the malbec on the slightly dry-edged finish.

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2014 Meursault Clos de la Barre has a subtle struck match reduction on the nose that seems to imbue it with more nerve than the 2015 tasted alongside. There is more drive and intensity here. The palate is very well balanced with impressive weight, quite spicy yet with a tender finish. It musters more…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(tasted from tank): Musky lime blossom on the nose. Tactile and extract-rich, displaying very good cut and energy to its flavors of lime and flowers. In a distinctly juicier style than the Désirée, thanks to good acid thrust. Refreshingly bracing on the aftertaste.