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Luján de Cuyo: Old Vines and a Patchwork of Soils (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Malbec Finca Bella Vista was aged for 13 months in 80% new barrels. The grapes came from a vineyard planted in 1910 in an excellent position by the Mendoza River on its newest alluvial terraces, resulting in poor, stony soil. It really comes into its own in cool, mild years like 2019. Inky…

Ribera del Duero: A Shifting Frontier for Spanish Wine (Nov 2023)

The 2021 Flor de Pingus hails from several vineyards in La Horra, Ribera del Duero and spent 18 months in French oak barrels. Purple in hue. The complex, subtle aromas include sour cherry and blueberry intertwined with rose, herbs and garrigue hints. On the palate, it’s dry and velvety, with a balanced, fairly intense, chalky…

Duero: From Ribera to Toro via Rueda (And a Few Other Detours) (Jun 2025)

The 2022 Flor de Pingus is made with grapes from the Burgos area of Ribera del Duero and was fermented in used barrels after an early harvest in a warm year. Floral and fruit aromas—lavender and violet, which are rare in warm vintages—open the nose, followed by a delicate touch of oak. A hint of…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby. Rather dumb nose exudes a faint shoe polish aroma. Dense, velvety, soft and mouthcoating; fills those hard-to-reach spots on your palate. Really an outsized wine, with thick, chocolatey fruit and major dusty tannins. But currently monolithic. In France they’d call this Monsieur Plus.”

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Figeac is powerful and tightly wound. It does not possess the density or sheer sexiness of many Right Bank wines. Instead, the 2005 comes across as strict and severe. I am not sure the searing tannins will ever soften enough for the 2005 to be truly pleasurable. There is good brightness and plenty…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Figeac has been a variable performer over the years, one where you never quite know what to expect until you pull the corks. As usual, it has a sullen bouquet at first before offering broody black fruit laced with melted tar and tobacco, hints of liquorice almost reluctantly evolving with time. The palate…