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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good bright ruby-red. Pretty aromas of black cherry, cassis, tobacco leaf, minerals, licorice and violet. Chewy, rich and deep, with good dense mid-palate fruit and excellent concentration. Fuller and sweeter than the Langoa. Finishes long and delineated, with powerful tannic clout and terrific mineral thrust. A serious 2006 for the cellar.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby-purple. Aromas of smoky plum, blackberry syrup, cinnamon and canele (a Bordeaux specialty made from a caramelized batter containing rum and vanilla) are very ripe but not exaggerated, and nicely lifted by floral and mineral topnotes. Very fresh in the mouth, with almost delicate but very deep flavors of dark berries, cedar and minerals….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Smith Haut-Lafitte has a very perfumed, quite floral bouquet with violets permeating the black and red fruit, hints of game and leather developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. Touches of brown spice filter through the red fruit and towards a fleshy and lightly peppered finish. This is a classy…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good bright red-ruby. Enticing aromas of blueberry, flowers, graphite and charred, nutty oak, plus a sexy suggestion of floral white fruit. Like liquid silk on entry, then concentrated and lush in the middle, with red plum, tobacco and mineral flavors given definition by lovely harmonious acidity. Utterly seamless wine with suave tannins. Voluminous and intense…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Medium red. Deep, complex, musky aromas of strawberry liqueur, milk chocolate and earth; superripe and nuanced. Huge wine of compelling richness and depth, but with enough supporting acidity to keep it from going over the top. Completely expressive grenache flavors of plum liqueur and pepper. Finishes with big, lush tannins and palate-saturating flavor.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru is showing a bit of heat on the nose, blurring the edges, especially compared to Taupenot-Merme’s Corton-Rognet. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, modest depth, a little savoury in style with hints of truffle and sage towards the finish. It finishes better than it begins. Tasted blind at…