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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame, in magnum, is terrific. It offers a bit more mid-palate presence than the wine from bottle. Citrus confit, orchard fruit, white flowers and spice are beautifully amplified by the big bottle. Brisk acids pull it all together on the vibrant finish. In large format, the 2015 Grande Dame is seriously…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame is superb. Bright and vibrant in the glass, it impresses with its energy and focus. The 2015 packs a lot of intensity in its medium-bodied frame. Tasted after the 2012, the 2015 has a bit less body in the mid-palate but more explosive energy leading into the finish. Pear, white…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

Clear with green tints in the glass, the 1996 Cuvée S has developed nicely in recent years, losing some aromatic green apple traits and evolving subtle, creamy scents, even with a suggestion of chamomile in the background. The palate has scintillating balance—real penetration and energy, revivifying the senses with its crisp and chiselled finish. It…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

Clear with green tints in the glass, the 1996 Cuvée S has developed nicely in recent years, losing some aromatic green apple traits and evolving subtle, creamy scents, even with a suggestion of chamomile in the background. The palate has scintillating balance—real penetration and energy, revivifying the senses with its crisp and chiselled finish. It…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 91/9 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.7% alcohol; 87 IPT; roughly 38% of the total crop) Purple ruby. Flamboyant aromas of red cherry, cassis, graphite and cedar soar from the glass. Then very dense, supple and smooth, with a noble texture and great breadth to its red cherry, blackcurrant, spicy plum, ink and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep purple-ruby. Pungent floral and spice notes enliven complex aromas of dark plum, cocoa and minerals. Large-scaled and juicy, with lively acidity giving sharp definition to the uncommonly deep, pure flavors of black fruits, forest floor and dark spices. The impressively ripe, powerful finish features youthfully chewy tannins and outstanding persistence. This big boy will…