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The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Limpid ruby-red. Intensely perfumed, spice-accented aromas of ripe red and blue fruits, potpourri and incense expand steadily with air. Palate-staining raspberry and boysenberry flavors are complemented by an exotic floral pastille quality and suggestions of star anise and allspice. Rich but bright and energetic as well, showing superb finishing clarity, smooth, well-knit tannins and persistent…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Glass-staining ruby. Expansive, highly perfumed aromas of cherry-cola, boysenberry, licorice, pipe tobacco and potpourri, with a bright mineral quality adding urgency. Seamless, palate-staining red and dark berry compote flavors pick up notes of spicecake and candied flowers with air. The finish is almost shockingly lithe, showing strong lift and a persistent floral quality. Sophie Estevenin…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Leroux’s 2012 Mazoyères-Chambertin dazzles with its intense, perfume and rich, round personality. Dark raspberries, mocha, licorice, spices and rose petals all abound in the glass. A model of pure sensuality, the Mazoyères finishes with substantial depth and intensity. Today, the Mazoyères is firing on all cylinders.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Village, which had also been bottled in August, has a vibrant minty bouquet that has plenty of energy. The palate is well balanced with orange zest and blackcurrant leaf on the entry. There is fine acidity here with a dab of salinity lending tension on the slightly short finish. Par for the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Village, which was bottled in January 2020, offers attractive green apple and lime scents on the nose, a touch of citrus peel developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded texture, creamy and generous, what you might call a crowd-pleasing Chassagne that would win wide approval, though maybe the 2019…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Echézeaux En Orveau comes from a cool microclimate, the last before you reach Musigny, though here the vines face south rather than east on shallow soils. This has a pleasant bouquet, initially quite bashful but gaining intensity in the glass, with crushed stone infusing the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, offering…