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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

(the first domain bottling of this wine at Faiveley, from the purchase of Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot): Medium red. Inviting aromas of black raspberry, framboise, caraway seed, spices, truffle and porcini. An essence of raspberry on the palate, with a pungent white pepper quality numbing the wine’s dry, savory finish. Ultimately more spicy than sweet, and not…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from a single hectare that came from Faiveley’s purchase of Dupont-Tisserandot. The parcels lie right across the road from Chambertin, and the vines are around 70 years old, although they were due to be pulled up the week after my visit, since they are becoming unproductive. This has a…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, moderately saturated medium red with a palish rim. Lovely aromatic lift to the aromas of tart red berries, dried flowers and minerals. Offers subtle sweetness on the palate but this is not a thick or fleshy grand cru, and it’s quite tight in the early going. But the cherry, red berry and floral show…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from a 0.8-hectoliter parcel of very old vines close to the forest; one of the two barrels was new): Good ruby-red. Delicate scents of kirsch, violet and bitter chocolate convey an impression of medicinal reserve. Concentrated and penetrating if not particularly expressive today, with its very dark flavors of blackberry and licorice pastille in need…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Inky ruby. Intense black and blue fruit aromas are complemented by notes of cola, roasted coffee and violet. Stains the palate with intense blueberry, floral pastille and anise flavors sweetened by a touch of mocha. Supple tannins build on the finish, which lingers with impressive tenacity and appealing floral character. Pretty elegant for an Hermitage,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Embazees 1er Cru has a gentle, lilting bouquet with scents of white peach, apricot and citrus, gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is lively thanks to a welcome seam of sour lemon that drives this Chassagne along, and offers wonderful salinity toward the finish. Excellent.