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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 90% merlot, 7% cabernet sauvignon and 3 % cabernet franc; 30 hectoliters per hectare; 15.5% alcohol; pH 3,65; 80 IPT) Inky black-ruby. Slightly gamey, highly aromatic nose combines cassis, plum jam, blood orange, incense and soy sauce. Then outsized but supple and fresh, with spicy plum, cedar and rosemary-oregano flavors supported by…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Troplong-Mondot has a completely over the top, gregarious and raisin-like bouquet that frankly comes as no surprise given the philosophy of the estate at this time. The palate is sweet on the entry with candied black cherries, cassis and cough candy, unlike Bordeaux in some ways with a rather cloying and alcoholic finish….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(15.5% alcohol on the label!): Saturated medium ruby. Enticing aromas of cassis, coffee, mocha and licorice pastille. Hugely dense but fine-grained, offering a liqueur-like, exotic sweetness to its superripe dark fruit and chocolate flavors. For all its richness and baby fat, the wine’s chalky underpinning prevents it from coming off as monolithic. Perhaps most impressive…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru seems to have closed down since I last tasted it – broody and introverted, certainly surpassed by Grivot’s two excellent Nuits Saint-Georges tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied, grippy and backward with a sullen finish. I have never been keen on this particular wine and that has not…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Bright red. Aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, red licorice, smoke and flowers. Suave and fine-grained; comes across as suppler than the 2014. Delivers lovely fruit sweetness but also serious medicinal reserve; will this shut down in bottle? Turned more tannic with air and showed its firm spine. This very fresh Clos Vougeot will need at least…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Larcis-Ducasse has a very well-defined bouquet of blackberry, briar and light violet aromas that seem to convey more energy than Pavie-Macquin. The medium-bodied palate delivers rounded, juicy tannins that frame the concentrated tarry black fruit. But maybe like Pavie-Macquin, this is just missing a little tension and detail on the finish that will…