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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(76% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, and 9% cabernet franc; ph 3.65; IPT 70; 13.4% alcohol; 65% new oak) Purple ruby. Initially closed nose opens slowly with air to reveal blackcurrant, blueberry, tobacco and minerals. Then remarkably supple and pliant in the mouth, with extremely sweet red and black fruit flavors complicated by graphite, tobacco and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Brilliant medium ruby. Brooding, medicinal aromas of cassis, blueberry, exotic spices and sexy oak. Large-scaled, dense and deep, with superconcentrated dark fruit and spice flavors given definition by strong acidity. Hugely rich but impeccably balanced Saint-Julien wine with a great, slowly building finish featuring a boatload of harmonious, noble, fully ripe tannins. This endless, subtle…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has…

2012 Barolo: Grace Under Pressure (Mar 2016)

The 2012 Barolo Castiglione is a gorgeous, radiant wine. Sweet red cherry, pomegranate, wild flowers and spices all meld together in a sensual Barolo endowed with striking presence and intensity. In 2012, the Castiglione is especially lifted and expressive, with compelling purity and nuance. With time in the glass, the wine freshens up considerably, so…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(made with 20 percent whole clusters and aged in concrete tanks and demi-muids) Dark ruby. Ripe, smoke-tinged cherry and blueberry compote aromas show excellent clarity, and a peppery element adds spicy lift. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering densely packed yet shockingly lively red and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors and a hint…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby. Highly perfumed nose is brimming with blackcurrant, blackberry and violet; shows an almost fruit cocktail quality. Then smooth, dense and lush, with noteworthy intensity to its fresh black fruit flavors complicated by stony minerality and exotic herbs. A wonderfully seamless and concentrated wine with superb balance, very smooth tannins and an extremely long…