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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2004 Vintage is a gorgeous Champagne that is just beginning to enter its first plateau of maturity. Dried flowers, brioche, mint, marzipan, tangerine peel and spice lend notable nuance throughout. A hint of reduction adds intrigue. As always, the 2004 is a linear, focused Champagne endowed with terrific energy. It is impeccably done. There’s…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Remarkably perfumed nose projects an exotic bouquet of deep, leesy yellow fruit, minerals, honeycomb, smoked meat and flowers, with Asian spices building expanding in the glass. Almost painfully concentrated, offering a surreal parade of orchard and pit fruits, smoked meat, toasted brioche and marrow braced by intensely salty, stunningly incisive minerality. Imagine a…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2005 Lafleur has always been a bit of a beast. It is clearly nowhere near its drinking window either on the nose or palate. Blackberry, gravel, wild heather and graphite scents reluctantly emerge on the nose, but it is a little surly compared to the 2008, for example. The palate is huge in terms…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2011 Lafleur was just pipped by the 2012. It has retained that Left Bank allure on the nose with graphite and tobacco infusing the black fruit, which does not have quite the brightness nor energy of the following vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a little drier and more austere than the…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Bright, cool aromas of black cherry and cassis, with a distinct white pepper cabernet franc lift and lots of floral perfume (a whopping 63% cabernet franc here!). Sweetly oaky and lush, with lovely inner-mouth perfume to its shockingly forward flavors of strawberry, cocoa and minerals. Precise, seamless and light on its feet,…