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The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2005)

Saturated purple-ruby. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, gunflint, chocolate, minerals, flowers and sexy nutty oak. Wonderfully lush, creamy and sweet, with extraordinary concentration of dark fruit, mineral and floral flavors. A wine with no corners, and hard to scrape off your palate. Broad on entry, then expands to a new dimension on the back half….

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Suduiraut has a strange bouquet with melted wax, quince and wet wool aromas, rather smudged and becoming Aszú-like with time in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry and starts well. It is missing some precision, a little spicy in style however, the warmth of the growing season erodes…

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Bright, full yellow. Honey, pineapple and a whiff of menthol on the nose. Then impressively powerful in the mouth but with lovely acidity leavening its concentrated fruit. Very juicy and fine for Suduiraut, and not at all outsized or overly sweet. Comes across as very young, and finishes with noteworthy spine. Quite suave.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very deep hue. The extraordinarily pure bouquet features black cherries intermingling with blueberry and oyster shell, and later a hint of potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, edgy and stony, with dark berry fruit and a little spicier than I recall apropos of previous Echézeaux at…

1997 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2002)

Intense garnet with ruby reflections. Opens with wonderfully sweet tobacco scents and spicy cedar. In the mouth there are nicely delineated, fresh flavors of anise, mocha and roasted coffee, the whole supported by very soft tannins, and the rather smoky close conveying an essence of raspberry. Although there are no hard edges in this sleek…

Focus on California (May 2001)

Saturated dark ruby. Aromas of black fruits, bitter chocolate, caramel and nutty, charred oak. Amazingly lush and silky for the year, with ripe flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and licorice. Can’t match the ’97, or the ’99, for sheer density but this is bright, concentrated, suave and very long. Tannins are even and fine….