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Giacomo Conterno: Seven Decades of Barolo Riserva Monfortino

We served the just-released 2015 as a last-minute surprise. It was the perfect conclusion to this dinner, as it really brought all the themes of the evening back to the present. Young and quite vibrant, the 2015 has a long life ahead of it. Like so many of today’s best Barolos, it can be enjoyed…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac is a renowned vintage. When Henri Lurton asked his father if he had witnessed a similar one, he replied “1928”…when he was just two years old! Brane-Cantenac stepped up a level with this vintage, dialling up fruit intensity a little without compromising delineation and focus. With blackberry, tobacco and touches of cedar…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac is a renowned vintage. When Henri Lurton asked his father if he had witnessed a similar one, he replied “1928”…when he was just two years old! Brane-Cantenac stepped up a level with this vintage, dialling up fruit intensity a little without compromising delineation and focus. With blackberry, tobacco and touches of cedar…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Léoville Barton is one of the few Saint-Julien wines to show a bit of sur-maturité on the nose. Hints of tinned prune infuse the black cherry fruit. The palate is ripe, very sweet and plush in style. It has a note of peppermint toward the finish that is rather distracting and otiose. Given…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Langoa-Barton is a total charmer, just as it was from barrel. Succulent red cherry fruit, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and crushed flowers give this radiant, mid-weight Saint-Julien gorgeous aromatic presence. There’s good energy to keep things in balance. I imagine the 2020 will drink well pretty much right out of the gate. It…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Langoa Barton has a wonderful, precise, mineral-driven bouquet with subtle marine scents (oyster shell and Crustacea) that emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Stylistically, it's not unlike the Léoville Barton, though this has more control and tension toward the persuasive finish. Glorious—one of the finest releases in recent years…