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Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2005)

(85% cabernet sauvignon, 8% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit verdot and 3% merlot) Red-ruby. Cool, shy aromas of currant, blackberry and licorice, with a leafy, medicinal aspect. Dense, fat and structured but also quite penetrating and powerful, with black fruit, licorice and herbal flavors and a strong impression of extract. This offers noteworthy energy in the…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a little mustiness on the nose. It’s tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, a success considering the vintage. White pepper and clove notes are pretty grippy, with touches of cooked meat becoming spicier towards the finish. A…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red-ruby color. Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and smoke. Dense and sweet but a tad rustic, with flavors of roasted dark fruits, chocolate and menthol. Offers a smooth texture, ripe acidity and sneaky length, but could use more precision of flavor and thrust.

Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)

Bonneau du Martray’s 2006 Corton-Charlemagne (magnum) opens with a super-classic bouquet of slate, crushed rocks and hints of reduction. Bracing and intense and energetic, the 2006 flows with superb focus and pure mineral-drenched cut. From magnum, the 2006 is simply dazzling and appears to have many years of fine drinking ahead of it. 95

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

Good full red. Aromas of red fruits, spices and game. Sweeter and fleshier than the Marsannay, with Gevrey-typical minerality. This tangy midweight finishes with a fine dusting of tannins.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby, not quite as saturated as the ’96. Expressive, sauvage aromas of black raspberry, cassis, smoke, leather and coffee; even riper than the ’96. Supple and sweet in the middle palate, with terrific flavor intensity and lovely framing acidity. But a bit brutal on the back end, with substantial, somewhat tough tannins that call…