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2011 Vintage Ports (May 2014)

Bright medium ruby. Knockout aromas of black fruits, pungent minerality, licorice, violet, black pepper and sexy nutty oak quickly shut down in the glass. Wonderfully sweet, layered and perfumed, with an alluring element of exotic flowers but also a spine of steel underneath. The authoritative, palate-staining finish displays outstanding energy, with the tannins really clamping…

Maule: The Magic of Old Vines and a Stylistic Reinvention in Chile (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Montelig from Panquehue, Aconcagua, has evolved aromas of dates, dried figs and red dried fruits with a candied touch. It is broad and rich, with a high pH profile and soft grip. This finishes with a lift and elegant warmth. It is a refined, bottle-aged wine with enveloping complexity.

1999 Brunello di Montalcino (Sep 2004)

Impressive saturated ruby, extremely dark for Brunello. Brooding aromas of dark berry syrup and licorice; distinct hints of surmaturite Then big, broad and extremely unevolved; highly concentrated but currently monolithic, and not really displaying its fruit. Finishes with big, chewy but ultimately rather fine tannins. Impressive in a modern style, but is this too solid…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2008 Brane-Cantenac is still marked by eucalyptus scents on the nose, though not as pronounced as in the bottle I tasted several years ago. Quite fresh with a decent amount of blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, it gradually becomes more pastille-like in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a keen line…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Pure, subtle aromas of yellow plum, spices, flowers and nutty oak. At once sweet and gripping, with a glyceral middle given shape by flavors of lemon skin and spices. Very subtle and very long, finishing with terrific backbone.

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Subtle aromas of white flowers, citrus skin and spices, along with a whiff of mirabelle Rather closed in the middle, with hints of citrus fruit and licorice. A very rich and rather powerful style; manages to maintain its balance despite its 14% alcohol, yet it’s hard to get a handle on this wine today.