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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium ruby-red. Very ripe but subdued aromas of dark berries, black cherry, minerals, woodsmoke, mocha and smoky underbrush. Silky on entry, then utterly smooth and seamless in the middle, with outstanding concentration and lift to the berry, tobacco and hot rock flavors. Finishes with utterly noble tannins and outstanding, slowly building length and lingering perfume….

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly remains a glorious example from this Pessac-Léognan estate and confirms my recent encounters. Blueberries and cassis scents soon join black cherries, blood orange and iris flower notes on the nose. It skillfully translates the precocity of the growing season, though there is just a touch of alcohol that blurs the edges compared…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Opaque ruby-purple; this really stains the glass. Intense herbal, cola and coffee notes keep the blackcurrant aroma in check, but I find this nose ultimately lacks grace. Straightforward and austere, with blackberry, cedar and herbal flavors displaying good length. Finishes with a nice peppery kick but this Pauillac currently…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Duhart-Milon has an intense but tightly coiled nose of black fruit laced with cedar and mint. I would have liked to see a little more precision. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and very well judged acidity. There is an appealing sense of symmetry here with fine precision and tension on the…

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1982 Ausone is a wine that I have tasted three or four times before, always a good but perhaps not great expression of the vintage, since it would be a good few years before Alain Vauthier could improve the winemaking. At 36 years of age it is showing quite wide bricking on the rim….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

The bottle in the blind flight showed rather autumnal aromas and an element of old wood on the nose; modest volume and sweetness; and some unabsorbed acidity on the back end. Second bottle: Full healthy red with a hint of amber. Cool, laid-back aromas of cherry, minerals and menthol. Dense with extract but extremely dry,…