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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon remains one of the all-time greats here. No longer a young Champagne, the 2008 has begun moving into its first plateau of maturity. Baked apple tart, citrus confit, marzipan and lightly honeyed overtones are front and center. A touch of reduction—always present in 2008—adds freshness and energy.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Domaine Bonneau du Martray is served blind in Bordeaux rather than Burgundy. There is a slight dustiness on the nose, a common trait amongst red and whites in this vintage, what evolves into a rather vegetal tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with an unmistakable greenness that knocks this off…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Cos d’Estournel is polished, silky and gracious, just as it was from barrel. In this vintage, the Grand Vin is especially refined. The dark red cherry, plum, new leather, licorice, cedar, mocha and spice notes are all beautifully delineated. To be sure, the 2016 represents a decidedly laid-back style within the context of…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

In my last sighted review of the 2016 Cos d’Estournel, I wrote: "I suspect it will close down for a period in its youth." Perhaps it is already beginning to shut down, because though this wine was deeply impressive, it fell just a notch short of ethereal previous bottles, despite its "pixelated black fruit" on…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 87% cabernet sauvignon, 9% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.79; 13.3% alcohol; represents a stringent 36% selection) Good full ruby-red. Pure, ripe aromas of cassis, graphite and cedar, lifted by floral and mineral high notes. Dense and amazingly concentrated yet light on its feet, with compelling, extremely pure…