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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Red-ruby color. Lower-pitched, redder aromas of plum, redcurrant and mulberry. Soft, sweet and lush, with an enticing layered texture and plenty of body. Currently more expressive in the middle palate than the ’96 but not quite as sharply delineated; conveys an impression of lower acidity. Finishes with very good length and even, ripe tannins. This…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1995 Palmer is a step up in quality over preceding vintages. This gorgeous bouquet has vibrant red fruit, rose petals and violet. A touch of melted road tar comes through with time. Classic Palmer. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced with good substance. There is a light savory element to this…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Ripe, deep aromas of currant, flowers, coconut and mint. Firm and tight, with excellent cut and precision; brisk flavors of bitter cherry, berry skin and minerals. A slightly dry-edged midweight that’s best today on the long, slow-building finish. Shows an intriguing late note of faded rose.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium red. Roasted currant, lead pencil, grilled nuts, tobacco and minerals on the nose. Smooth, vinous and concentrated, with lovely depth of flavor and ripe acidity for the vintage. Finishes with even tannins and excellent length. A very successful ’97.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…