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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Volnay Les Pluchots, which comes from a limestone soil that Bouley compares to the terroir of Clos des Chênes, is matured in 30% new oak. It has a pure bouquet with red cherries, wild strawberry and wilted rose petal aromas. The palate has a touch of succulence on the entry, cohesive with fine…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Marsannay Es Chezots was cropped a little lower than other Marsannay cuvées due to degenerated vines. This is a little more tertiary on the nose, more inhibited than the Clos du Roy. The medium-bodied palate has supple tannins, not quite as chiseled as the Les Longeroies but broadening out nicely on the finish….

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Volnay Les Pluchots offers darker fruit than the Village, with touches of black plum and iodine developing in the glass, and just a very slight tarry quality. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, but very cohesive with a dash of black pepper that enlivens a somewhat sturdy finish. Give this a…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Meursault Village is a blend of five parcels, including Le Clos, just behind the winery. It has a well-defined, crisp and quite minerally bouquet, leaning slightly towards Puligny in style. The palate is fresh on the entry, with a lively bead of acidity and a walnut and fume-tinged finish. It may need a…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Inky ruby. Expansive dark berry preserve, cherry liqueur, licorice and potpourri aromas are complemented by an exotic spice flourish and a suggestion of smoky minerality. Broad and fleshy in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry, boysenberry and bitter cherry flavors, along with five-spice powder and floral pastille nuances. Slowly firms up with air and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré has trumped Las-Cases in previous blind tastings. This is another great Saint-Julien that has stood the test of time, the vintage that really announced Didier Cuvelier and a resurgent château. It has a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of aniseed percolating through with time, all delivered with superb delineation….