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Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco Vigneto Valeirano is the most refined wine I have tasted from this site in Treiso. The tannins, always forbidding in Valeirano, are wonderfully polished, and yet convey the essential feeling of structure that is such a central part of what makes Barbaresco so compelling as a wine. Dark wild cherry, incense, graphite,…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi is outrageously beautiful. Dense, powerful and rich, the 2016 races out of the glass with huge fruit to match its classically mid-weight profile. Super-ripe red/purplish berry fruit, wild flowers, licorice and mint play off the huge tannins with real grace. Readers have to be patient, but the 2016 Starderi is…

The 2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Stepping Back in Time (Apr 2023)

The 2001 Harlan Estate is in a great spot today. Though fully mature, the 2001 retains terrific energy and focus. Bright acids lend surprising vibrancy and energy throughout. Hints of tobacco, cedar, leather and dried herbs add nuance as well as complexity. This is the first vintage made at the current Harlan Estate winery. A…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2001 Napa Valley Cabernets (Jun 2020)

Deep medium ruby with no sign of development. Musky aromas of blackberry, blueberry, soy sauce and licorice; almost liqueur-like. Huge, savory and utterly silky on entry, then plush and superconcentrated in the middle palate, boasting blackberry, licorice and mineral flavors of incredible intensity and penetrating sweetness. Utterly palate-staining in its breadth. Leaves the palate vibrating…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2005)

Deep medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blackberry, candied violet, licorice pastille, black pepper and a suggestion of dusty earth. Like a liquid confection in the mouth: thick and sweet yet almost magically shapely and fresh. The longest, most inexorably palate-staining wine of my tour of the North Coast in early March: this lost…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2002 Harlan Estate is a stunner. Black cherry, plum, mocha, new leather, licorice and sweet oak all flesh out. Pliant and supple, with tremendous depth, the 2002 dazzles from start to finish. It is also one of the most vibrant, youthful 2002s I tasted for this report. I can only imagine how thrilling the…