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Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2006 Masseto. It’s that kind of wine. The 2006 is every bit as magnificent today. Dense, richly-textured and potent to its core, the 2006 is a wine for readers who can be patient. I love the brooding intensity and sense of gravitas the 2006 conveys. Tonight, it…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a towering wine. Just as it did en primeur, the 2021 dazzles from start to finish. The Cabernets are very high in the blend, and that comes through in a Saint-Julien endowed with ton of explosive vertical lift. Lavender, dried herbs, mint, spice, rose petal and a kick…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

Just as I found from barrel, the 2021 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is stubborn on the nose at first, opening with a few swirls of the glass to reveal blackberry, cassis and light juniper aromas. The oak here is beautifully integrated. The palate is classical in style, the Cabernet patently in the driving seat—as you…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande needs more coaxing from the glass than previous vintages. Blackberry, juniper and iris flower scents reluctantly unfold, though tasting a second glass, I found the nose more forthcoming. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. The Cabernet is in the driving seat, imparting black fruit, a touch of graphite…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

Do you want the good news or the bad news first? Let’s start with the good. The 2021 Pichon Comtesse is epic and certainly among the great wines of this vintage. Sadly, the coulure and mildew in the first year of organic farming plus dehydration at the end of the growing season took with it…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Brooding ruby. An expansive, highly complex bouquet evokes ripe, spice-tinged black and blue fruits, olive, potpourri, game and incense; a smoky mineral note builds as the wine stretches out. Coats the palate with deep, mineral-accented cassis, kirsch, bitter chocolate and violet pastille flavors that show outstanding definition and developing sweetness. Gripping tannins add shape to…