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2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Vivid ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of red and dark berries, cherry and licorice. with slow-building spice and floral character. At once rich and lively, displaying very good clarity to its black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Shows a seamless texture and finishes with excellent power, focus and floral-driven persistence. I underestimated this wine last year.

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Saturated medium ruby. Inky aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, iron and graphite. Dense, sappy and chewy with extract, with limestone lift energizing the solid black fruit palate. Still a bit youthfully imploded but not at all heavy. Finishes with a restrained sweetness and building tannins that saturate the sides of the tongue. Hold this for…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Le Dôme has a slightly flat nose, plenty of fruit but it needs more tension, perhaps a little bretty? The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, balanced but a little dry. There is a nice touch of white pepper, but it does taper a little towards the finish.

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright ruby. Fresh raspberry, crushed stone, orange zest and white pepper on the nose, complemented by an intense note of violet. Juicy and penetrating but youthfully imploded, showing outstanding precision to its very pure flavors of raspberry, red cherry, white pepper and blood orange. This has the inner-palate aromatic lift of a first growth….

But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2022 Fleurie Vieilles Vignes Madone has a concentrated bouquet with intense black cherry and boysenberry fruit; it needs more red fruit. The palate is very ripe and hedonistic on the entry, a powerful and unsubtle Fleurie, but it’s knocked off balance by a nagging green element right on the finish.

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1966 Lafite-Rothschild is a wine that I have tasted twice before and it remains one of my favorite vintages from the period, even though as the Four Seasons First Growth dinner illustrated, not every bottle hits the spot. This bottle in Hong Kong ranks amongst the best that I have ever encountered. I notice…