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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The sophomore 2019 Aloxe-Corton La Coutiere 1er Cru underwent no pigeage this year. It has a floral bouquet of rose-petal- and incense-infused red fruit, hints of aniseed emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry entry, fine weight and acidity, fanning out nicely toward the also slightly tarry finish. This is a…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins, a lieu-dit more known for its whites, comes from 60-year-old vines. It has brambly red berry fruit, cool or to use Mark Haisma’s term “glacial,” on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with good depth, more structured than expected, with a bit of stemminess on the finish (20% used). This…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Le Bas de Chapelot is very succinct on the nose, gently unfolding to offer scents of lemon verbena, crushed stone and just a touch of dandelion. The palate is taut and linear, perhaps the most austere of Vocoret’s 2020s, and quite saline on the finish, which needs a little more length. Fine,…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Chaignots 1er Cru has a glorious bouquet with impressive purity and charm, floral, black cherries and veins of blue fruit bursting from the glass. The medium-bodied palate has ripe tannins, leaning a little towards the red fruit side of the spectrum, with black pepper and a slightly savory finish. Afford this…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Perrières 1er Cru is one cuvée that perhaps suggests a little over-ripeness on the nose, with touches of fresh dates infusing the black fruit. There is also an attractive floral element that will hopefully become more pronounced once in bottle. The medium-bodied palate has some oak to be subsumed on…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Margaux Grand Vin is ravishing. At once refined and exuberant, Margaux beautifully captures the spirit of the vintage. Layers of dark fruit, spice, lavender, crushed flowers and leather open graciously, revealing a wine of uncommon depth and finesse. The 100% new oak is not at all perceptible. Enveloping on the palate, with striking…