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Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Bright ruby-red. Ripe, spice-laced cherry and dark berries on the fragrant nose, with hints of licorice, spicecake and floral oil adding complexity. Supple, expansive black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors become firmer and spicier with air, picking up notes of star anise and smoky minerals. Closes sweet, velvety and long, with resonating spiciness and gentle tannins…

Barolo 2008: The Incredible Lightness of Being (Apr 2012)

The 2008 Barolo Brunate is gorgeous. An open, beguiling bouquet redolent of Christmas cake, plums, menthol and licorice melds into an expressive core of dark fruit. The mystery and allure of Brunate is on full display. The 2008 was quite open just after bottling, but it has begun to shut down since then. Both times…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Bright red. More reticent nose hints at cherry and menthol. Deep and juicy but youthfully imploded; showing more soil complexity than the La Serra but closed, even medicinal, today. Finishes longer and more tannic. As tightly wound as it is at present, it’s not at all hard. Lay this classically styled Barolo down.

2014 Chianti Classico: Better Late Than Never (Oct 2016)

The 2013 Cepparello is superb. Polished, silky nuanced and exceptionally beautiful, the 2013 exudes freshness and energy from start to finish. Succulent red cherry, plum, lavender and rose petal are some of the signatures. Aging in French oak shapes the wine nicely without marking it excessively. The purity of the flavors is striking. This is…

2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2009)

Good deep red. Deep, vinous nose combines redcurrant, menthol, graphite, flowers and medicinal herbs. Big, round, rich and savory, showing more soil-inflected saline and mineral flavors than primary fruit. This focused, taut wine is not made in a sweet style but is quite elegant, finishing classically dry, with a broad dusting of tannins and a…

2004 Brunello di Montalcino: A Vintage Full of Surprises (Jun 2009)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is simply awesome in the way it marries a gorgeous expression of ripe, dark fruit and a classic sense of structure. A rich, enveloping wine, it flows onto the palate with masses of black cherries, minerals, spices, tar, new leather and smoke. This is an exceptionally well-balanced and finessed Brunello…