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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Calon-Ségur has a classic Saint-Estèphe nose. Rather obdurate at first, it takes time to coalesce, revealing black fruit, charcoal and warm gravel scents, well defined but distant and not predisposed to charm the imbiber. In a funny way, I quite like that stubbornness. The palate is well balanced with firm tannins and fine…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2015 Sassicaia is incredibly elegant, perfumed and light on its feet. It has become even more wonderfully refined since I last tasted it. Sweet floral and spiced notes lead into a core of sweet red and purplish berry fruit. When it was younger, the 2015 was quite potent. Today, my impression is that, while…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a clean and precise bouquet, beautifully focused with blackberry, melted tar, cigar humidor and crushed stone aromas. It gains intensity with aeration without ever losing its precision. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a sense of abiding symmetry and detail as it fans…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a youthful, very oaky bouquet, even after 10 years, modern in style but very pure and charming. The palate is rounded and fleshy on the entry with candied black fruit, sweet and more like a 2009 stylistically. Lovely cassis notes mixed with blueberry furnish the finish. Very seductive, although…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant nose combines black and blue fruits, lead pencil and crushed-stone minerality, with a note of kirsch emerging with air. Utterly silky in texture yet extremely backward, with a medicinal quality keeping the penetrating dark berry flavors under wraps today. But with a powerful impression of tangy energy, a superb spine of saline…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 8% cabernet franc; 74 IPT; 3.56 pH; 75% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Deep ruby with purple highlights. Sexy, classic, captivating cabernet sauvignon aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and cedar complicated by minerals. Silky-sweet, fine-grained and almost gentle on entry, with well-integrated acidity contributing to an impression of…