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The Forecast for Tokaj (Sep 2001)

Here we have an improbable superconcentrate of blueberry, strawberry and raspberry. Exhilarating and extraordinarily vivid and long. 2 stars.

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers more complexity on the nose than the L’Esprit, with scents of yellow fruit, melon and lime. The palate is well balanced with texture, notes of peach skin, pear and a dash of stem ginger, leading to a brisk harmonious finish. Although it does not rank among the best…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is quite dense on the palate. Pear, apricot, spice, white flowers and lightly honeyed notes build in the glass. Even in this brutally warm year, the Blanc retains a good bit of energy. As readers know, the Blanc is a rare white that demands cellaring to be at its…

2009 Barolo: Highs and Lows (May 2013)

Smoke, incense and tobacco are some of the many nuances that emerge from the 2009 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi. One of the very best 2009s from this historic site, Burlotto’s Cannubi impresses for its depth, richness and sheer power. The sensuality typical of Cannubi is given extra dimensions of pure volume that are unusual yet hugely…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Suduiraut presents a bewitching bouquet of dried honey, lanolin, saffron and light orange pith scents, all harmonious and well delineated. This might be better than I estimated from barrel. The palate is balanced with great density and weight, a viscous texture, a fine bead of acidity and a hint of passion fruit toward…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Suduiraut is elegant, gracious and lifted, as the wines here typically are these days. Apricot, cinnamon, dried flowers, mint and orange peel all grace this wonderfully airy, understated Sauternes. Most importantly, the 2022 is a wine of exquisite balance. The 190 grams of residual sugar is quite a bit higher than the norm…