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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is tasted from separate cuvées and as a final blend. Containing around 80% whole bunches and 60% new oak, it has a beautifully-defined bouquet with dark berry fruit, bay leaf and a touch of white pepper that unfurls in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Village has quite high-toned bouquet with fig-tinged black cherry fruit. The palate is sweet and candied, a little confit like, something almost Tuscan about the finish. Still, enjoyable, if not exactly Pinot-like, hence my parsimonious score.

Saar Riesling 2019-2020: Selective Excellence (May 2022)

The “regular” 2020 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett (bearing A.P. #3) leads with quince and peach accented by mint, cress, ginger and lemon, setting up an overall impression of coolness, but also of brightness, with stimulating cut and pungency analogous to that of the corresponding Braune Kupp. In the background is a greenhouse-like amalgam of flowers and…

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The refined 2020 Saint-Joseph hits the palate with great concentration and a juicy core of red fruits. Pencil shavings, crushed violets and cedar add more layers. Maintaining spot-on balance and neatly framed by polished tannins, the 2020 Saint-Joseph is classic Gonon. It is less ripe and flamboyant than the 2018 or 2019, but offers more…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Deep magenta. Displays expansive aromas of black raspberry, cherry liqueur, candied flowers and olive, along with exotic spice and smoky mineral nuances. Weighty as well as energetic in style, offering sappy, mineral-drenched black and blue fruit preserves, floral pastille flavors and hints of star anise and allspice. Finishes juicy, lively and wonderfully long, with resonating…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Deep, bright red. Blueberry, licorice, violet, menthol and fresh herbs on the nose, with a medicinal reserve. The rather backward medicinal character follows through on the palate, but there’s also a deeply seductive, succulent quality to this grand cru’s very fresh dark fruit and spice flavors. The building tannins are supported by the wine’s lush…