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2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is dense, ample and also ethereal, as only it can be. Once again, Romanée-Conti elicits thoughts of art forms like cubist paintings or jazz, where themes are implied but never expressly stated. Above all else Romanée-Conti is a Burgundy that engages all the senses. You want answers, but all you…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 8 at 35hl/ha and bottled April 25–26 . It has a quintessential Romanée-Conti bouquet of pure, seductive red fruit (morello cherry, cranberry, raspberry), extremely well defined and focused, plus subtle sea spray/seaweed aromas; with continued aeration, I noticed just a faint touch of curry leaf in…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 La Fleur-Pétrus has a bright, appealing nose that is not dissimilar to L’Eglise-Clinet: red berry fruit, marmalade, cedar, just a dab of aniseed, all well-defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and well-judged acidity that imparts tension. White pepper and cinnamon complement the savory red fruit towards the finish. This is perfect…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc) Bright medium ruby. Delicate, floral aromas of violets, red berries and tobacco, with a hint of pine needles. Bright and fresh on entry, this lighter-styled, easygoing version of Cheval Blanc offers pretty red cherry and raspberry flavors nicely lifted by a citrus twist. Finishes very long, pure and suave,…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright red-ruby. Brooding aromas and flavors of licorice, cherry pit, bitter chocolate and black cardamom. Lush and sweet in the mouth but with terrific definition and grip. This very young wine is most impressive on the vibrant, mounting, palate-saturating aftertaste, which features fine-grained tannins, solid structure and lovely spicy perfume. Wonderfully aristocratic wine whose outstanding…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2008 Cheval Blanc is one of the go-to wines of the vintage. Now at 15 years old, it has retained the energy and focus it displayed from the outset: black fruit, crushed stone, wilted violet petals and touches of forest floor cohere wonderfully in the glass. The Cabernet here is more expressive. The palate…