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Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk (Aug 2024)

This dense and brooding 2020 Shiraz Grange has all the elements for a long life with impressive levels of extract and tannins, but lacking the delicacy of a great vintage. It opens up with waves of tarry, licorice and cola aromas against a backdrop of firm, unyielding oak. Muscular, chalky tannins provide a strong frame…

Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk (Aug 2024)

This benchmark vintage for Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon in 2022 carries both raw power and impressive vibrancy. It ripples with persuasive aromas of blackberry and blackcurrant topped by grated chocolate-mint and a strong oak component. Super power on display in a dense and full-flavored package marked by quite serious tannins that draw out an…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(13.5% alcohol): Good pale yellow. Ripe aromas of peach, fresh apricot and hazelnut; a quintessence of Meursault. Rich, ripe and sweet but framed and energized by a stony mineral underpinning, strong spice notes and a flavor of underripe pineapple. The building, palate-staining finish displays excellent structure and verve. This needs a good eight years of…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Musky dark raspberry and smoke on the nose, with cherry coming up with air. Sweet, lush and full, with rich flavors of dark berries, chocolate and spicy oak. Fat for this cuvee but a bit shut down today. Long and sweet on the finish.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1983 Latour is a delightful surprise. It is a vintage that I had not seen for a few years, and I had just two vague recollections of an ordinary First Growth; this was far superior and unquestionably the best bottle I have encountered. Modest bricking on the rim. The harmonious bouquet is fragrant and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Latour is served blind with a mischievous Nicolas Glumineau next door at Pichon-Lalande. This is a fine showing for a wine unfairly lying in the shadow of the previous vintage. Blackberry, tobacco and shavings of black truffle on the nose that is higher-toned than you would expect (indeed, it throws me off identifying…