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Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2004 Blanc des Millenaires offers a striking combination of freshness and the complexity that develops in bottle. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and white pepper lend aromatic brilliance to this lithe, super-finessed Blanc des Blancs. I have long adored the 2004s from the Côtes des Blancs. The Blanc des Millenaires is another terrific example…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2011 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru just feels a little flat-footed. It has a typical leafy bouquet, nicely defined but bereft of some horsepower, damp moss/undergrowth scents becoming more conspicuous with aeration. The palate is quite sharp and tart on the entry. This is certainly fresh but I wish there was more substance towards…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

(100% vendange entier; 13.2% with a bit of chaptalization): Medium red. Highly complex nose combines wild dark berries, smoky herbs, brown spices, leather, rust and pepper. Suave, elegant and fine-grained; a lovely silky midweight with perfumed notes of iron, rust, olive, wild herbs, spices and pepper. Finishes with very good spicy length. This can be…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts comes across as quite cool and introspective. Ultimately that is a great sign for readers who plan on cellaring the wine. Today the Malconsorts is totally closed in on itself. It shows little of the exuberance it did from barrel. Still, from time to time the wine reveals hints of…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is the first vintage that really expresses the character of the vineyard on the nose: greater delineation and mineralité, more penetration and authority thanks to its intense red cherry, crushed strawberry and cranberry scents that soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins; fleshy and…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good full red. Cherry liqueur, cocoa, truffle and some earthy low tones on the inviting nose. Fat, sweet and very ripe; uncommonly lush and mouthfilling. Seems much more accessible today than the Beaux-Monts but this large-scaled premier cru boasts terrific depth to support a long life in bottle. Finishes very full and long.