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Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

Deep ruby-red. Multidimensional aromas of blackberry, iron, Oriental spices and cedar. Very intensely flavored and suave, with a wonderfully silky texture over a firm underlying structure. A hint of eucalyptus provides lift on the extremely long finish, which features building tannins and a violet nuance. This is a remarkably suave Ornellaia, but it seems a…

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

Another example of this era, the 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé offers plenty of energy and tension, both signatures of the vintage. At the same time, though, the fruit never fills out, which tilts the balance to acidity and austerity. Frankly, I liked the 1996 more when it was younger. Today, the fruit has either begun…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Bright, amber-tinged pink with pinpoint bubbles. Deep, smoky and complex, with a kaleidoscopic bouquet incorporating wild strawberry, peach, apricot, chestnut honey and cured meat. A firm, strikingly concentrated midweight with powerful flavors of orange peel, raspberry, redcurrant, baking spice and smoked meat and gentle supporting acidity. Smoky, sweet and long on the back, with a…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Palmer has long been one of my favorite wines from the Left Bank in this vintage. Now at 20 years of age, it has a sumptuous bouquet that you would attribute to a warmer growing season than 1999: mulberry, fresh dates and sloes, all beautifully defined, and little different from how this wine…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Good medium ruby. Boysenberry, currant, graphite, mocha, underbrush and roast coffee on the nose, along with sexy smoky oak. Lush, sweet and vinous, with complex, explosive dark berry flavors and impressive density for the year. Plump and pliant. Finishes with broad, lightly dusty tannins and excellent length. In comparison to this, the 2001 is drier…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Light gold. Vibrant, tangy aromas of apple, pear, white peach and minerals. Wound tight right now, only reluctantly offering up flavors of fresh orchard fruits, herbs and pepper. Finishes zesty and long. Seems less deep than the 1997 bottling; is this just in a sullen, youthful stage?