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Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2007 Dom Ruinart (magnum) is in a gorgeous spot right now where it is just starting to open. If anything, the magnum lags the 750ml bottle at this stage in terms of its development, which is of course to be expected. I admire the textural resonance here.

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

I thought the 2012s would be a good place to start this lunch, as the wines have always been quite open and seductive. That is very much the case today. The 2012 Cristal is quite delicate and floral, with hints of pear and white flowers that add considerable allure. This is a young Cristal still…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A huge, intense Saint-Émilion, the Bélair-Monange is just as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. That’s the good news. The not-so-good news is that the wine is going to need at least a decade to shed some of its considerable baby fat. A rush of super-ripe black cherry, game, smoke and tobacco hits…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Bélair-Monange has a straight-laced bouquet compared to its peers, with black plum, wild strawberry fruit, mint and mahogany bureau aromas. The oak is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. There is a sense of symmetry that I really appreciate. It's very focused with a healthy dab of black pepper toward…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Bélair-Monange has an intriguing bouquet with red plum, mocha, leather and antique bureau aromas. This is not as immediate or as generous as its peers, yet it is imbued with a compelling complexity. The palate is very well balanced with fine mineralité that seems to have bubbled up to the surface in recent…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 La Mission Haut-Brion has a supremely gifted bouquet with vigorous blackberry, pencil box and cedar scents that seem to have moved little since I last tasted it in 2019. The palate is medium-bodied, very ripe and actually much toastier than I remembered. This has pliant tannins and the savory element I picked up…