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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a “decent” quantity this year according to Romain Taupenot, though that only equates to a measly 170-litres. Despite the miniscule quantity, this is still de-stemmed. It has a crisp nose with brambly red berry fruit, pressed rose petals and a touch of Earl Grey. The palate is…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1994 Yquem, a vintage that sacraligiously I have not tasted before, was upended at the last furlong by two weeks of rain on the eve of picking. The wine comes from continuous harvest between October 5 and 14. It has a clear amber hue with green tints on the rim. The bouquet is better…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Alter Ego de Palmer has a potent nose with plenty of black fruit, perhaps just a tad more exuberant than its peers. Cedar and pine aromas come through with aeration, followed by a scent of India ink. The palate is medium-bodied with a plush, almost voluptuous texture. Though it is very concentrated initially,…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2009 Dom Pérignon Rosé is a sexy, racy wine that captures all the radiance of the year. Kirsch, blood orange, mint, spice and dried flowers unfurl in the glass. Soft, plush contours wrap it all together. Readers will find a Dom Pérignon Rosé endowed with tremendous textural depth and resonance. The 2009 is a…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2003)

Very deep red-ruby. Smoky, deeply concentrated fruit bomb of a nose: blackberry, dark plum, cassis; creamy vanilla and lightly toasty coconutty oak; and ethereal background notes of white pepper, smoked meats, musky spices, tar and licorice. Profoundly concentrated but velvety-smooth and seamless; impressively muscular and thickly coated with oak, and bound by drying, astringent tannins….

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to fill out. A bit. Rose petal, pink grapefruit, white pepper, slate, mint and sage gradually appear in the glass. The 2008 remains rather austere, befitting a cold vintage with what has now become a very rare October harvest. Vibrant and yet also clenched, the 2008 still…