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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep red. Sweet red cherry, cassis, cedar and graphite on the showy nose. Sweet and chewy in the mouth, with red fruit liqueur and Oriental spice elements carrying through on the tactile, long finish. Much better than the Pauillac, which is the estate’s third wine.

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Opus One is a wine of real breadth and power. Black cherry, plum, leather and spice flesh out effortlessly, but what stands out most is the wine's textural intensity and sheer power. Readers will have to wait a number of years until the 2016 is at its best, but it is clearly another…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; from a crop level of 34 hectoliters per hectare; pH 3.70; 13.5% alcohol; harvested on September 22 and 25) Deep ruby-red. Perfumed, expressive aromas of cassis, blackberry liqueur and minerals lack the sheer decadent opulence of some recent vintages. Then wonderfully clean and precise, with flavors of blackberry and plum complicated by hints…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Le Pin has an attractive bouquet with scents of black cherries, truffle, orange rind and hints of pain d’épices developing. I appreciate the definition here, the sense of control, the terroir coming through as much as the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin, a fine bead of acidity, spicier than…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1987 Yquem is a vintage that I have only encountered once before, at Lynch Moussas as I remember. Rain and "tropical heat" conspired to make picking difficult i.e. an abundance of grey rot, so selection had to be fastidious. This bottle does little to alter the fact that it is a so-so vintage for…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1987 Yquem, the second time I have encountered this off-vintage, still misses a bit of vigor on the nose that features quince and white peach scents. It has modest attraction and yet does not possess the complexity of other vintages. The palate is balanced, but a bitter lemon element toward the finish feels jarring…