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2014 Barolo: Late Releases (Nov 2018)

Roberto Conterno opened the 2013 Barolo Cerretta as a comparison with the 2014. Powerful, dense and incredibly tannic, the 2013 is a potent, classically austere Barolo that will only soften with time. The only question is how much. Sage, licorice and rose petal overtones start to emerge with air, but readers should not be thinking…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru displays more complexity and mineralité on the nose compared to the Cuvée Classique; the fruit is a little darker, revealing hints of cola and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lithe and fine-boned. Slightly chalky-textured toward the precise finish. This is actually more 2019…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes, Francois Labet’s old-vine cuvée, is dark, dense and powerful. Black cherry, plum, gravel, spice and licorice give the 2016 a real feeling of gravitas. The Vieilles Vignes is an imposing, brooding Burgundy. It comes across as heavy and overextracted. I prefer the straight bottling for its greater aromatic…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.2% alcohol; 18 hectoliters per hectare produced; from vines harvested on September 23): Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Explosive, fruit-dominated aromas of dark berries, cherry, spices, mint, menthol, flowers and minerals. Conveys compelling sappy energy in a silky, medium-bodied package, with its black fruit and herb flavors complicated by a touch of saline minerality. Boasts…

Mâconnais 2016 and 2015: Dealing with the Elements (Nov 2017)

Bright, light yellow. Musky aromas of yellow apple, mirabelle, ginger and minerals. Supple, round, spicy wine, kept fresh by some unabsorbed CO2. Quite ripe in the style of the year but dry and savory, displaying a slightly saline umami texture and less fruit sweetness than the Mâcon-Solutré. Yellow fruits and dusty minerals carry well on…

Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)

Bright, light yellow. Subtly perfumed aromas of apple, minerals, ginger and flowers. Supple, broad and dry, offering a refreshing salinity to its mineral and apple flavors. Very suave and fine-grained, and smooth and persistent on the aftertaste. Attractive already but there’s no rush to drink this.