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Nebbiolo in Its Many Guises: Alto Piemonte & Valtellina (apr 2020)

The 2014 Gattinara Molsino is shy and introverted in its first impression, with quite a bit of intensity lurking in the background. Today, the Molsino is not as expressive as the Valferana, but its day will come. With a bit of aeration, the 2014 starts to show the structure, layers of nuance and resonance that…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Le Corton Grand Cru does not really cohere on the nose, which is slightly acetic and high-toned compared to its peers. The spicy, energetic palate has plenty of sour cherry and balsamic notes on the entry, but lacks cohesion and comes across rather monotone on the tapered, austere finish. Tasted blind at the…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

Bonneau du Martray’s 2017 Corton Grand Cru is exceptionally beautiful. The aromatics alone are beguiling. A burst of sweet red berry fruit and flowers emerges from this gracious, sensual Corton. The 2017 is so expressive, vivid and elegant, even though it was bottled just a few months before this tasting. In a word: impressive. I…

On the Cusp of Evolution: Amarone and Valpolicella (Apr 2022)

A burst of mocha and clove is balanced by dusty black cherries and savory herbs as the 2017 La Poja blossoms in the glass. This is a heady and extroverted expression with a pretty inner sweetness contrasted by tart black fruits and inner herb tones. Dark chocolate, cloves, hints of vanilla and candied lavender can…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is a rich, heady wine. In 2009, Billecart-Salmon opted not to use lots aged in oak, which, along with partially blocked malolactic fermentation, helps explain the wine’s freshness and verve. Lemon peel, white flowers, white pepper and chalk are all beautifully delineated. There’s gorgeous density and power…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, USA (Jun 2025)

The 2010 Dom Ruinart is as magnificent as it has always been. Once again, I am mesmerized by the wine’s freshness, precision and detail, especially in a vintage that was so challenging in Champagne. The 2010 will be one of the most enduring legacies of Chef de Cave Frédéric Panaïotis' life and career.