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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Pungent, highly complex nose offers ginger, quinine, flowers and oyster shell. Bright, minerally and firm-edged, with exotic suggestions of mango, oran ge and pineapple. Wonderfully precise blanc de blancs, with terrific sweetness of fruit for a dry wine. Finishes long, juicy and nuanced, with a lingering spicy character. Delicious now but capable of gaining in…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Expressive, inviting aromas of plum, redcurrant, smoked meat, mocha, tobacco and cedar. Suave, juicy and bright, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic character to the flavors of redcurrant, minerals and dried flowers. Focused and primary. Lovely subtle claret with a juicy quality and lingering perfume.

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a delightful wine for the vintage and, as I wrote before, far superior to the previous one. Cropped at 59.4 hl/ha, this was one of the largest yields in living memory, refuting the idea that low yields equal better quality. The nose is very well defined with blackberry, raspberry and tobacco…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Le Pergole Torte is a total stunner. Rich, sumptuous and layered, the 2020 possesses exceptional balance and class to burn. The 2020 is an opulent, racy and super-expressive wine with no hard edges and exceptional balance. Readers will find a super-classic Pergole Torte endowed with tremendous fruit purity. Dark-toned fruit, lavender, sage, graphite…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

The 2004 Dom Ruinart is just as brilliant and viscerally thrilling as it has always been. If anything, the 2004 has shut down considerably over the last six months. Tightly coiled and exceptionally beautiful, the 2004 boasts fabulous intensity, class and pedigree. The flavors are vibrant, chiseled and crystalline in their precision. Time in bottle…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Vivid yellow. Pungent, heady aromas of ripe pear, orange pith, brioche and toasty lees, with a stony nuance adding lift and urgency. Smooth and expansive on the palate, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors that pick up minerality and smokiness with air. Finishes sappy, penetrating and very long, with slow-building sweetness and a note…