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2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Full red. Restrained, pure aromas of red fruits, menthol, oak and dried rose. Dense and ripe but tightly wound, even a bit youthfully pinched today, with some edgy acids. Notes of currant, meat, leather and pepper. Grew sweeter with aeration, suggesting that it will improve with bottle aging.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Yeasty aromas of toasted bread, toffee and roasted hazelnut, along with brighter apple and pear fruit notes. Fresh and brisk, with excellent breadth and weight. A very rich, fairly dry and harmonious wine with a long, lively finish. Structured and fine for a ’89. This bottle showed far fresher than the sample I tasted a…

Joel Payne on Germany 2007 (Jan 2009)

(for 375 ml.) Golden yellow. Pear preserves, honey and a subtle note of smoky botrytis on the nose. Very bright dried apricot fruit and insistent slate set the tone for this rich and creamy wine. Finishes astonishingly long, with sweet herbal spices. With perhaps more brawn than elegance, this beerenauslese is not necessarily better than…

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1994 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a tricky vintage. One bottle tasted back in 2009 was rather green and another that popped up in a private dinner performed similarly. Vestiges of red fruit on the nose but rather mean, the palate is pleasant enough but missing a real core of fruit and tapering sharply towards…

Vinous Table: SO|LA, London, UK (Jun 2021)

Staying in Burgundy, the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières En La Richard 1er Cru from Domaine Etienne Sauzet came across a little – dare I say – Californian on the nose, the oak more prominent than I recall from barrel, traces of orange blossom emerging with time. The palate is smooth with good acidity, and quite…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

Brilliant ruby-red. A fragrant nose evokes ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers, licorice and white pepper, and a smoky mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and concentrated in the mouth, offering gently sweet cherry, cassis and floral pastille flavors that spread out steadily on the back half. Closes chewy, sweet and very long, with building…