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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pensées de Lafleur has a very harmonious bouquet with black cherries, iodine and light violet aromas that blossoms in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and quite structured for this particular cuvée. A beguiling, black pepper and pencil lead tinged finish lingers in the mouth. Excellent.

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2014 Sammarco is distinctly savory and nervous in this vintage, both reflections of the cool growing season that favored Cabernet Sauvignon over the other varieties in the blend. Sweet tobacco, grilled herbs, red cherry, menthol and dried flowers struggle to fully emerge, as the 2014 remains a touch compact today. Hints of rose petal…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Chambolle-Musigny is a pretty, accessible wine, but today I get the impression the 2011 may be headed for a period of dormancy. The relaxed, easygoing personality of the vintage is in evidence, but the fruit isn’t as generous or resonant as it was a years ago. I have seen the villages blossom with…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Deep, bright red. Very ripe aromas of black raspberry and coffee/mocha torrefaction. Expressive, rich flavors of crushed cherry, dark raspberry, coffee and spices are nicely framed by spicy acidity. Conveys a jellied fruit character along with an almost warm floral element. This fairly tight, long wine still has some corners that need softening.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.6% alcohol; from a crop level of just 22 hectoliters per hectare): Deep, bright red with ruby tones. Deeper and darker on the nose than the young 2016, offering hints of black raspberry, medicinal cherry, mocha and crushed rock; seems already to be closing down. Plump and thick in the style of the year; superripe…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

It is several years since I last tasted the 2015 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, which Jacques Devauges made in his first year. This has a more rustic bouquet compared to recent vintages: brambly red fruit, iron filings, and that “rusty nail” component that I observed back in 2018. The palate is medium-bodied with firm…