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2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2015 La Magia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a dark and intense wine, showing mentholated black cherry and sage, while flaunting its oak influence with aromas of mocha and balsamic spice. It’s rich and textural, with fleshy, ripe red berries and spice underscored by tactile minerality. Tannins build toward the close, creating a grippy…

Cellar Favorite: Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991-2019 (Jul 2022)

The 2016 Vin de Constance contains 165g/L of residual sugar. This has a wonderful bouquet with layers of wild honey and acacia, little-changed since I last encountered it a couple of years back. The palate is concentrated, multi-faceted yet primal at the moment. I suspect this vintage is maturing at a glacial pace, but I…

Constance Craving: Vin de Constance 1992-2017 (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Vin de Constance contains 165g/L residual sugar and has a pH of 3.73. It is slightly paler in color compared to other recent vintages. The well-defined bouquet offers scents of wild honey, acacia and orange blossom, all quite airy and focused – not what you would call a heavyweight nose. On the palate,…

Simply…..Dom Pérignon (Jan 2009)

These four vintages of Dom Pérignon provide a fascinating snapshot of how the house has performed in recent years. The 1999 Dom Pérignon is a little flabbier than the 2000. Smoke, toastiness, tar and ripe fruit emerge from the glass in a generous, expansive style. The 1999 offers more body than the 2000 but the…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Green-tinted gold. Tightly wound lime and pink grapefruit aromas open slowly to reveal a gently smoky mineral and floral character, with a light kiss of green cardamom adding interest. Very fresh on the palate, with youthful citrus and green apple flavors giving way to slightly riper blood orange and pear. Finishes firm and dry, with…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and touches of iodine, a little pressed violet emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy tannins, real depth and grip, one of the most opulent ‘20s from Dujac, though I wager that the Beaux Monts has a little…