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Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru has a ripe nose with red cherries, candied orange peel and some hickory notes in the background (it oddly reminds me of Japanese tonkatsu sauce). The palate is juicy and savory on the entry. Assertive toasty oak detracts from the purity of fruit. It doesn’t quite meld together…

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

Readers will find a silky, nuanced Barolo in the 2012 Riserva Vigna Rionda. Rose water, orange zest, cinnamon, sage, mint and dried cherry are some of the many nuances that give the 2012 its aromatic top notes, and all of the elements fall into place effortlessly. Relatively open-knit for a young Rionda, this should drink…

Staring Into The Heart of Sangiovese (Jun 2012)

The 2007 Cepparello comes across as rich, round and totally seductive in this tasting. Stylistically, it shares many attributes with the 1990 and 1997, although in my view it is more elegant than those wines. There is an immediacy about the 2007 that is highly appealing, and which will make the wine accessible relatively early….

Chianti, Vino Nobile and Super-Tuscans (Jul 2010)

(100% sangiovese; aged for 18 months in barriques, one-third new and 5% American oak; 14.5 % alcohol) Deep red. Aromatic nose of ripe red cherry, menthol and underbrush, with an intriguing note of peach. Sweet, supple and dense, with ripe flavors of dark plum, almond, underbrush and tomato paste. Finishes long and smooth, with a…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a tightly-wound bouquet that needs coaxing from the glass, eventually revealing wet pavement, fern, flint and light citrus scents. The palate is taut, fresh and well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity; the 2020 gains weight towards the finish with a long, lightly spiced aftertaste that urges…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is clean and fresh on the nose, a little more austere than the 2019 yet beautifully defined with perhaps more mineralité. The taut, fresh palate has wonderful salinity and a vibrant finish that belies the warm summer.