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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Very fine mousse, with abundant bubbles. Medium straw color. Strong notes of yeast and butter on the nose, along with tangerine and Meyer lemon. Plump and supple on the palate, showing tropical flavors of fresh pineapple and papaya. Quite graceful in texture, finishing with subtle notes of mace and cinnamon. An impressive showing.

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1985 Lynch-Bages has long been one of my favorite vintages from this decade. The bouquet is very elegant—one of the best I have encountered—with mint and cassis aromas on the nose along with pencil shavings joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of freshness, salinity and lovely symmetry on…

Montevertine: Le Pergole Torte 1980-2012 (Jan 2016)

The 1996 Le Pergole Torte, from a cold, late-ripening vintage, is powerful and explosive, with a compelling interplay of ripeness, sweetness and structure. Cherry jam, wild flowers, mint, sweet spices, menthol and licorice meld together in the glass, while lavender, rose petal, quinine and a host of aromatic notes come alive on the finish. Although…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold color. Deep, rich and toasty on the nose, with suggestions of earthy truffle, cocoa and candied apple. This is really classic Bollinger in style. Rich, broad and thick, with weighty poached pear and buttered toast flavors that linger on the finish with real authority. Fans of the house style will adore this.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru (Bichot are the largest owners in this Premier Cru) is another cuvée that I feel was picked a little too late (31 August). There are slight prune-like notes on the nose that just detract from the delineation and give it a Grenache-like personality. The palate is medium-bodied with…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru has a ripe nose with red cherries, candied orange peel and some hickory notes in the background (it oddly reminds me of Japanese tonkatsu sauce). The palate is juicy and savory on the entry. Assertive toasty oak detracts from the purity of fruit. It doesn’t quite meld together…