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Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1992 Taylor’s Vintage Port has a black/purple colour with only slight maturation on the rim. The nose has always been so intense, a kaleidoscope of damson, raspberry, crushed violets and just a touch of alcoholic warmth, yet somehow it retains incredible delineation. The palate is full-bodied with concentrated black fruit, the tannins having melted…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is not as defined on the nose as Mugneret-Gibourg’s Vosne-Romanée Village, showing perhaps more marine influence with hints of oyster shell permeating the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied and a little chewy in style with a gentle grip that imparts a sense of rusticity. Some whole…

The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017 (Mar 2025)

The 2009 Tokaji Essencia is a production of 1,356 bottles. It contains 581 g/l residual sugar and 11.8 g/l acidity. Very complex, it’s quite profound on a nose that is still just a little timid coming after the 2016. Seville orange marmalade, quince jus, honeycomb and butterscotch gradually unfold in the glass. It conveys a…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(from vines planted in the early ’90s) Good full medium red. Cassis, licorice, flowers, minerals and a whiff of tar on the nose. Sweet and supple in the mouth; a step up in texture from the village wines despite the youth of these vines. Nicely juicy and intense wine, finishing with palate-dusting tannins.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 8% cabernet franc; 74 IPT; 3.56 pH; 75% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Deep ruby with purple highlights. Sexy, classic, captivating cabernet sauvignon aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and cedar complicated by minerals. Silky-sweet, fine-grained and almost gentle on entry, with well-integrated acidity contributing to an impression of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a clean and precise bouquet, beautifully focused with blackberry, melted tar, cigar humidor and crushed stone aromas. It gains intensity with aeration without ever losing its precision. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a sense of abiding symmetry and detail as it fans…