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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a youthful, very oaky bouquet, even after 10 years, modern in style but very pure and charming. The palate is rounded and fleshy on the entry with candied black fruit, sweet and more like a 2009 stylistically. Lovely cassis notes mixed with blueberry furnish the finish. Very seductive, although…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant nose combines black and blue fruits, lead pencil and crushed-stone minerality, with a note of kirsch emerging with air. Utterly silky in texture yet extremely backward, with a medicinal quality keeping the penetrating dark berry flavors under wraps today. But with a powerful impression of tangy energy, a superb spine of saline…

Sancerre’s Charm Offensive (Jul 2023)

The 2021 Les Chailloux is Riffault’s only Sancerre grown on flint soils – the rest is on limestone. And it evokes the scent of flint being struck. It is a cool, westish-facing site that doesn’t get morning sun, so it’s a taut, crisp, citrus style with gooseberry flavors and nettles. There’s a hint of nutty…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2017 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée shows its typical brightness and energy, but like all the 2017s in the range, the volume is turned down and there is just less of the heady, explosive richness found in the very best years. White pepper, green orchard fruit, crushed rocks and flowers lend nuance. La Bolorée…

New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

The 2019 Pinot Noir Settlement Vineyard is full of vigor, conveying a real sense of urgency from the start to the long-drawn-out finish. While supple and smooth in the mouth, it punches home with mouthcoating, firm tannins and a flourish of acidity that ties the wine together and provides long length. The wine’s red-fruit aromatics…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice comes from old vines that ripen later than others, so Galeyrand uses them for their massal selection program. Blended with 20% whole bunch, this has a heart-warming bouquet with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit notes and a touch of forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and refined, with supple…