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White-on-White: Porseleinberg 2010-2020 (Nov 2023)

The 2020 Porseleinberg was a hot and dry season that saw 355mm of rain that moistened the soil sufficiently that, together with smooth flowering, saw larger bunches. The harvest was one of the quickest ever (February 5-19). Matured for 12 months in foudres and concrete eggs, it has a beautifully defined bouquet with a mélange…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Porseleinberg is aged for 12 months in foudres, blended in concrete and then aged 16 months in bottle. It is very fragrant on the nose with black fruit, white pepper, fennel and hints of lavender, not unlike a mature Jamet in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a light and peppery entry, beautifully…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2017 TD-9 is pretty, floral and nicely lifted, with more of an aromatic touch than the first vintages. On the palate, the wine is a bit light, though, and lacks the customary richness readers have come to expect from Shafer. This mid-weight, classy red has a lot to offer, but there is no getting…

Ribera del Duero: A Shifting Frontier for Spanish Wine (Nov 2023)

The 2021 Interpretación from Ribera del Duero was sourced and aged for 16 months in French oak barrels, with 30% new and 40% 500L oak barrels. I tasted it a couple of weeks after bottling. Garnet with a purplish sheen, its reductive nose reveals sour cherry and blackberry notes, along with dried flowers and thyme….

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Bright medium red. Less flamboyant on the nose but also livelier than the Beaux Monts, with tangy cherry and raspberry aromas lifted by minerality. The palate delivers superb tension and cut for the vintage, with a hint of menthol austerity and little in the way of easy sweetness to the berry and mineral flavors. Finishes…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots is likely to require considerable patience. A dark core of introspective fruit occasionally emerges, but this remains reticent and inward. The wine will not come to the taster, rather readers will have to seek out the qualities that lie within this superbly pedigreed, exceptional wine. The finish is long, weightless…