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The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard 1er Cru (Rouge) comes from 50- to 60-year-old vines that produce smaller berries. This has an exquisite bouquet with wild strawberry, crushed stone and wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The stems impart noticeable pepperiness that defines the finish at the moment. Give this time in…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Saint Romain Le Jarron has a lively bouquet after a few swirls of the glass – lime and lemon zest coming through with aeration. The well-balanced palate has fine weight and a pleasing “fatness” in the mouth with a pithy finish. Enjoy over 3-4 years.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep violet. Powerful, spice-accented aromas of ripe dark berries, cherry cola and licorice are energized by a smoky mineral topnote. Densely packed and concentrated, offering sweet blueberry preserve, cherry liqueur and lavender pastille flavors that show surprising energy for their heft. Finishes with resonating florality, youthfully gripping tannins and superb, spice-driven tenacity.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The sophomore 2019 Aloxe-Corton La Coutiere 1er Cru underwent no pigeage this year. It has a floral bouquet of rose-petal- and incense-infused red fruit, hints of aniseed emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry entry, fine weight and acidity, fanning out nicely toward the also slightly tarry finish. This is a…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins, a lieu-dit more known for its whites, comes from 60-year-old vines. It has brambly red berry fruit, cool or to use Mark Haisma’s term “glacial,” on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with good depth, more structured than expected, with a bit of stemminess on the finish (20% used). This…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Le Bas de Chapelot is very succinct on the nose, gently unfolding to offer scents of lemon verbena, crushed stone and just a touch of dandelion. The palate is taut and linear, perhaps the most austere of Vocoret’s 2020s, and quite saline on the finish, which needs a little more length. Fine,…